By DAVID ERSOFF, Journal Contributor 

When I was in my mid-twenties, back in the early 1990s, I spent a few years working in Tampa and Orlando, Florida. There was a 24-hour restaurant called Wags, very much like a Perkins. Wags was a very popular late night stop after the bars and clubs shut down.

I found myself there way too many early mornings, but how could I not? They served a Biscuits with Sausage Gravy that was out of this world. I will admit it tasted better at 3 a.m. than it did at 9 a.m., but I chose to believe the cook was just better in the middle of the night.

In all those years I haven’t been able to find that dish as good, and I have tried. Well, my search is over, after 30+ years. A friend mentioned a place he wanted to try, Shreveport Biscuit Company, 3311 Line Ave., Shreveport, just a block away from Byrd High School.

After looking at the menu, I knew I’d try their Biscuits with Sausage Gravy. I’ll admit I also ordered a Red River Ham and Cheese Biscuit Sandwich (sub sausage) as a backup. I did not need the backup.

This was not an exact match to Wags, but It was so good, I wanted more when I cleaned the plate to an embarrassing degree. The biscuit was the right balance of fluffy and hearty. It held up to being covered in gravy.  The gravy was rich and thick; it had a little bit to it I couldn’t identify. There was a bounty of sausage that added some volume to the meal, and great sausage flavor.

I was intrigued with the Side Tot enough that I ordered it as well. You can choose between smoked bacon or smokey onion jam and I went with the bacon. The order is topped with cheddar cheese and a drizzle of Simply Delicious Ranch. I was nervous about how the ranch would interact with everything, but wow it blended so well. That’s a must try.

I didn’t forget about my biscuit sandwich. That became my dinner. I try not to judge restaurant food if I eat it hours later because it’s usually not as good, or at least not as intended. This biscuit sandwich was so good. The Mo’s homemade honey mustard sauce absolutely made the sandwich, it overshadowed how good the sausage and biscuit were. I’m sure it would be even better right out of the kitchen.

Shreveport Biscuit Company has been open over two years and I had not heard about it. I guess all the Byrd staff and students were keeping it a secret for themselves! The secret is out, at least it is for me, and my office is pretty close, so you’ll see me there on occasion going forward. 

Contact David at dersoff@bellsouth.net