Frequently, the Shreveport-Bossier Journal’s always-hungry reporter has lunch at a local restaurant and tells you about the experience.
By ANON E. MUSS, Journal Services
I’ve been around these parts awhile, so I am surprised when someone mentions a restaurant of which I have never heard.
That was the case when a friend and I were discussing where we could go for this week’s lunch review. I had written about the restaurants he suggested, with one exception. He had heard good things about Taza Kabob & Grill (1911 Benton Road, Bossier City). I was not familiar with the place, but my friend is someone I trust a great deal – especially when it comes to food. So, on a recent Thursday, we agreed to meet up and check out Taza.
We arrived at 11:45 and walked into what was a very small dining area. Small, as in only four tables (with four chairs each), and a nine-seat counter overlooking the parking lot. There were four ceiling fans which, as I would later learn, was about all the air conditioning the restaurant had (more on that in a minute). There was one television. However, with three sides of the small building being glass, the glare made watching TV impossible.
When we walked up to order, my friend told the gentleman behind the register that we were first-timers. That man, who we would learn was the owner, was very polite, welcoming us, and telling us Taza had been opened three years. We asked him a couple of questions about the menu, and he was more than happy to help us decide what to order.
“If you glance at Taza’s menu,” my friend explained afterwards, “it might be easy to think ‘Greek’ restaurant. But then you would be misleading yourself. It’s a ‘Mediterranean’ restaurant that leans heavily Arabic, which is important to know when considering what to order.”
Well, my knowledge of Mediterranean and Arabic food is almost non-existent, so I was going to play it safe. On the electronic menu, Taza offered eight appetizers. Thank goodness for brief descriptions under each, as I was not familiar with most of them. One thing I did recognize was Roasted eggplant dip, which in this scenario was called Baba Ghanoush. So, I ordered a small size ($7.99) – which came with pita bread – for my friend and I to share.
At Taza, you can choose from one of five sandwiches, and seven entrees. Again, I was in play it safe mode. So, I chose the Chicken Kabob Plate ($17.99), which was promised to come with rice, hummus, and a salad. I had a bottled water to drink ($1.50).
My friend was more adventurous. He knows someone who frequents the restaurant, and she recommended the Beef Kefta Sandwich ($14.99), which came with French fries. He had a canned Diet Coke to drink ($2.69).
We sat at one of the two open tables, but as I said, the dinning room is really small. So small, in fact, I could not fit both of my legs under the table. So, I kept one of them outside the table the entire time. Not a big deal, but it wasn’t the most comfortable I’ve ever been.
After about 15 minutes, we had not received our appetizer. So, I assumed it would be served with the rest of our meal, which isn’t what is supposed to happen. Therefore, when our server finally arrived, I was surprised he was bringing us our appetizer only. We received two bowls—one with the dip, and one with four slices of pita bread. There was a lot of dip—much more than four pita slices would hold. So, it was nice when our server saw the empty pita bowl and asked if we would like more bread.
The eggplant dip wasn’t bad, but it sure didn’t taste like eggplant. In fact, I really couldn’t come up with a specific taste. My friend said the Baba Ghanoush was “just what it was supposed to be. Think of it as hummus, except it’s made with eggplant instead of chickpeas. Eggplant, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, and tahini, stirred into a smooth spread.”
My friend is so much more cultured and smarter than I am.
About 10 minutes later, our server was at our table again, but with just one plate of food (mine). He explained that the beef my friend ordered needed a little more time to cook. My friend knows I like my food hot when it is supposed to be hot, so he gave me his blessing to start eating without him.
The presentation of my chicken kabob plate was impressive. There were several pieces of grilled chicken on top of a large bed of yellow rice, accompanied by a grilled tomato. To its left was a huge amount of hummus, bordered by a salad. The chicken stayed warm throughout my meal and was tender and tasty. The rice was fluffy and also warm. I’m not a hummus expert, but found it to be especially good when using it as a dipping sauce for my chicken. The hummus was, like the eggplant dip, loaded with olive oil.
The salad was also good, with lettuce, tomato, and sliced onions. But it was covered with what I assumed was ranch dressing. I don’t like ranch dressing, and when ordering, was not offered a choice of dressing.
When my friend’s meal arrived, it was served in a plastic basket. Half the basket was taken up by the sandwich, and the other half by the fries.
As he explained after eating, Kefta is seasoned ground meat made with beef or lamb, and a mediterranean spice package. “My ‘sandwich’ came wrapped like a burrito, so it wasn’t a gyro and it wasn’t a po’boy. It was what it was, and it was good.”
“The spice package is definitely not Greek, and while my palate is not well-attuned to food inspired by the region, my impression is that it seemed close to Indian cuisine . . . . Fresh herbs, onion, and garlic all seemed to be in there. You might describe it as aromatic, which means it smelled appealing. It didn’t disappoint. I can sum it up by saying I really enjoyed it, and it had a flavor I had not experienced.”
As for the fries, my friend described them as “fresh, crispy, hot, and not too salty. They were a good accompaniment without being a distraction.”
Earlier, I mentioned four ceiling fans providing the only relief from an outside temperature which reached just shy of 100 degrees and produced a feels like temperature of more than 100. Well, by the time we were into our meal, I was sweating. Seriously, this was more than being uncomfortable. If I wanted to eat outside, I would have done so at one of the two between the parking lot and the front door. By the time I left, I was thinking more about how hot I was, than how much I enjoyed my food.
When ordering, I asked if Taza’s four Mediterranean Desserts were homemade. I didn’t get a clear answer, but understood that some of them were shipped in from Dallas. I passed, but encouraged my friend to try one. He chose the two-piece Baklava ($5.99). As he ate, he felt buyer’s remorse.
“I wish I had ordered a crepe which was made in-house, but I defaulted to what I know . . . . The serving of Baklava was just okay, but I think I was expecting a Greek version . . . . The filo pastry wasn’t as flaky as I like, and the exterior wasn’t sticky with honey, like the Baklava I know.”
The cost of our meal before tax was $51.24. However, I noticed afterwards that we were not charged for the Baklava. So, our meal should have cost a little more. By the way, Taza charges an extra 4% if you pay with a card instead of cash.
Okay, my fork rating is supposed to be based on my experience, meaning everything from the food, to the atmosphere, to the service. I am giving Taza Kabob & Grill Three Forks, but with an asterisk. The food was good, and the people working there were nice. But they must – emphasis on the word must – do something about the air conditioning, or lack thereof. If not, the only way I would return is if it’s fall, winter, or spring. Eating inside and sweating is not a good combination, and can ruin an otherwise pleasant meal.
It just about ruined this otherwise pleasant meal.
1 Fork: Would rather eat a box of dirt
2 Forks: Will return, but only if someone else is buying
3 Forks: Will return and look forward to it
4 Forks: Will return and go out of my way to do so
Is there a restaurant you would like the Journal to visit for lunch?
Email SBJRestaurantReview@gmail.com.
