Frequently, the Shreveport-Bossier Journal’s always-hungry reporter has lunch at a local restaurant and tells you about the experience.
By ANON E. MUSS, Journal Services
One of the great, local, restaurant success stories is the evolution of the Silver Star brand. It has grown to multiple locations, with a heavy emphasis on barbecue.
Several years ago, Silver Star strayed from their bread and butter (or ribs and sauce) and opened a “Cantina” in Bossier City. It eventually closed, but has re-opened – kind of – in Shreveport. (I will explain “kind of” in a minute). The relatively new Silver Star on Youree (5815 Youree Drive) occupies the former space belonging to Pepito XO Mexican Bistro.
So, on a recent Friday, I invited a friend to join me for lunch. It was his 50th birthday, and I was happy to buy his celebratory meal.
We arrived at 12:15, and when I walked in, I thought I was at the wrong place. There was country music playing. There were bull horns hanging on the walls. There were blue neon lights.
Huh? This didn’t look or feel like any Mexican food restaurant to which I had been.
Silver Star on Youree has a large dining room, however, the hostess chose to show us to seats in the bar area. One of the first things my friend noticed was the high-end table and chairs. Later, he pointed out that our drinking glasses were the heaviest he had ever lifted. The Silver Star brand is known for its quality, and that includes more than its food.
Looking around, I didn’t see any indication we would be eating the likes of enchiladas, tacos, or burritos. I did see waitresses wearing short shorts, skirts, and cowboy boots, a Silver Star staple. Hey, why mess with success, right?
Finally, a sign we would be able to eat Mexican food. Our server brought lunch menus which were two-sided. One side had exclusively Mexican choices. The other side was more in line with Silver Star’s other locations – BBQ, Salads, and Seafood.
Now, I usually don’t discuss pricing until the end of a review. But pricing must be discussed when it comes to Silver Star on Youree. Because of the restaurant’s high-end reputation, I knew the food would not be inexpensive. Still, my friend and I felt a bit of sticker shock when deciding what to order. Of the Mexican food choices, the least-expensive entrée was two enchiladas ($18). The most expensive entrée was Wagyu Carne Asada ($59). There are a few options in the $24-$28 range.
Thankfully, chips and salsa were complimentary, and our server did a great job of making sure our basket of chips never remained empty for long. The chips were crisp and without grease. However, they were a little too salty for my liking. I prefer chips to be served without salt, and if I want, I will add it. The salsa was fine. Not great. Not terrible.
My friend suggested we start with an appetizer, and who was I to argue with the birthday boy? Of the five choices, we selected the Cantina Tasting Sampler ($18). We were promised 4 ounces each of Queso, Guacamole, Salsa Verde, and Silver Star Ranch, served with fried jalapeno rings. I will say that we received what was promised, along with several large, flour tortilla chips. However, neither of us thought the appetizer was worth the price.
The jalapeno rings were a lot of batter and not much jalapeno. The tortilla chips were greasy, fatty, and had zero taste.
“There has to be a better appetizer that we could have selected,” my friend said. “The ranch sauce was super ranchy. The guac was good, but the salsa which came with the chips was better than salsa which came with the sampler.”
For my entrée, I went with Street Tacos ($19). For that price, I could have three tacos filled with either Grilled Chicken or Pulled Pork, or I could mix and match. I chose to have two pulled pork tacos and one grilled chicken taco. (Other street tacos were available for a higher price). The menu indicated my tacos would come with rice and tortilla soup, as well as taco salsa, pickled onion, white onion, cilantro, and lime wedges.
The presentation of my food was outstanding! The tacos were made up of not one, but two soft corn tortillas filled – and I mean filled – with my pulled pork and grilled chicken. As for their taste? Both the pork and chicken were on the dry side. However, that issue was easily corrected by topping the tacos with salsa. I was looking forward to my soup. But, instead, I received a cup of refried beans, along with rice. The rice was unlike what you eat at most Mexican restaurants. This rice was white, and included bits of corn and carrots. Both it, and the beans, were good.
My friend’s selection looked equally impressive. He chose to have Enchiladas. The least expensive enchiladas were $18, and he could have either Cheese with Cheese Sauce, Grilled Chicken with Sour Cream Sauce, or Pulled Pork with Ranchero Sauce. He went with grilled chicken, but instead of sour cream sauce, he chose to have Salsa Verde.
My friend did not enjoy his meal nearly as much as I enjoyed mine.
“The enchiladas were smothered in the Verde sauce, which covered up any sort of taste the enchiladas may have had. The chicken was a little on the tough side. When I tried the chicken by itself, I thought it was dry, and lacking in flavor. What I got in the enchiladas was a lot of tortilla and a lot of sauce – for $18. I only ate one, because I didn’t want the other one. I preferred to get filled up on the chips and salsa.”
Silver Star on Youree offers six desserts. However, knowing I was already in line to pay a pretty penny, and the fact that I was very full, we passed.
The cost of our meal before tax and tip was $55. However, know that Silver Star on Youree automatically adds an 18% gratuity. If you are in a party of six or more, the automatic gratuity will be 20%.
Usually, these reviews are accompanied by a graphic which shows the number of forks I give each restaurant. However, I have requested a graphic not be used this week, and here’s why. If you are accustomed to eating at a Mexican food restaurant for a reasonable price, you likely won’t care for Silver Star on Youree. Their food is good, but it’s expensive, especially if you compare prices to what you are used to paying.
Now, if you are looking for – and appreciate – a high-end experience in both food and atmosphere, and don’t mind paying above and beyond, you are likely to enjoy your Silver Star on Youree visit. It’s up to you as to whether you want to pay top dollar for an elevated experience. A friend of mine believes people purchase in terms of value, not cost. But the definition of “value” is arbitrary. If you’re starving and only want to spend $10, one of Taco Bell’s Luxe Boxes will do just fine. If you want an upscale dining experience and money isn’t as big an issue, Silver Star on Youree is your place.
Is there a restaurant you would like the Journal to visit for lunch?
Email SBJRestaurantReview@gmail.com.
