Frequently, the Shreveport-Bossier Journal’s always-hungry reporter has lunch at a local restaurant and tells you about the experience.
By ANON E. MUSS, Journal Services
In August, I wrote about a restaurant which was suggested to me by a trusted friend. He had a first-time satisfying experience. I went with high hopes but unfortunately, did not have the same experience. I gave the restaurant Two Forks. The only way I would go back is if someone else is paying.
So, I was a bit hesitant when the same person recommended I visit The Cotton Boll Grill (1624 Fairfield Avenue, Shreveport). But I’ve known this person many years and decided to trust him at least once more. So, on a recent Tuesday, I invited that same friend to meet me for lunch. I figured if he had skin in the game, his choice might be more solid.
The Cotton Boll has been around a long, long time – a news article read that the grill opened in the 1930’s. When I was an altar boy, the church gave coupons for a free breakfast when I would serve at the 6am mass on school days. I don’t remember going back to The Cotton Boll since. In fact, The Cotton Boll was supposed to close earlier this year before being bought.
My friend and I arrived at 12:20, despite him warning me that by then, The Cotton Boll may have run out of their daily lunch specials. “People call head and pick up before lunch,” he said. “If you snooze, you lose.” There didn’t appear to be many cars out front, so I was hopeful there would still be food for us.
One thing The Cotton Boll isn’t, is big. It’s width and depth gave a cramped (some might say cozy) feeling. If you have sensitive information to share with your dining companion, this isn’t the place to do it. With five small booths on one side, four on the other, a couple of two-top tables in between, and counter seating, all in a compact space, you will likely overhear other people’s conversations. But the closeness added to the restaurant’s quaintness. There isn’t a pretentious bone in The Cotton Boll’s body.
History is a big part of the eatery. Its walls are filled with hung pictures and drawings of what Shreveport looked like back in the day. Music from the 50’s and 60’s played throughout our lunch. From the décor to the atmosphere, going to The Cotton Boll is like going back in time.
Open until 2pm Monday-Friday (breakfast is served starting at 6am), The Cotton Boll offers Daily Lunch Specials, Hot Lunch Plates, Vegetable Plates, Southern Favorites, Sandwiches, and Salads. Knowing my affinity for a good salad, my friend thought that was the direction I would take when ordering. However, I was there for some good ‘ol fashioned home cooking, so my eyes focused on the menu’s daily specials and hot lunch plates.
A Tuesday meant the daily specials were Meatloaf, and Southern Friend Smothered Pork Chops. Both tempted my taste buds, but for some reason, I had been craving a hamburger steak. Lucky me! One of the three hot lunch plate choices was an 11-ounce, house made smothered hamburger steak with onions and gravy, my choice of two sides, and my choice of bread ($12.99).
My friend was hoping to get the Irish Beef Stew, which was one of the Southern Favorites. However, his prediction came true. The beef stew was gone before we arrived. So, he went to his back-up plan involving Chicken Fried Steak. Mindful of the calories which come with gravy (“The chicken fried steak requires gravy to be at its best), he chose the Chicken Fried Steak Sandwich ($13.99). My friend had a Diet Coke ($2.49) to drink, while I had water.
It seemed to take a while for our food to arrive. So long, that I almost asked our very nice server, Christie, what was taking so long. Then, I noticed just one cook at the grill. I am trying to work on patience and understanding, so I decided to wait before speaking up.
That turned out to be a good decision, as our food arrived a few minutes later. My plate had a large, mostly flat, hamburger steak, rice (I could have chosen mashed potatoes), and bowls of turnip greens and candied yams. The steak and rice were supposed to be served with gravy, but that didn’t happen. I also had a choice of hot water cornbread or regular cornbread. I will never pass up an opportunity to have hot water cornbread.
My food was fine. Nothing extraordinary. Everything could have been a bit warmer, but overall, I did not have any complaints.
My friend’s sandwich came as advertised — a piece of chicken friend steak served with lettuce, tomato, onion, and a pickle, all on a homemade bun. “It was everything I expected it to be,” he said after eating. “The bun was fresh, the chicken fried steak was tasty, and I would get that sandwich again and again. Same with the vegetables. They were exactly what you would expect when having lunch at a diner – hot and delicious. It was like eating your mom’s cooking, and that’s what you want.”
The Cotton Boll offers “a rotating selection of homemade pies, cobblers, and desserts.” However, we were full, and still had a half day of work ahead of us.
The cost of our meal, before taxes and tip, was $29.47.
For me, The Cotton Boll Grill did was it was supposed to do – provide a filling lunch in a casual place for a reasonable price. I am not singing its praises, nor am I being critical. I am being neutral. I give The Cotton Boll Three Forks. I would return, but not go out of my way.
What I will do is take my friend’s next recommendation. He redeemed himself, and has momentum on his side.
1 Fork: Would rather eat a box of dirt
2 Forks: Will return, but only if someone else is buying
3 Forks: Will return and look forward to it
4 Forks: Will return and go out of my way to do so
Is there a restaurant you would like the Journal to visit for lunch?
Email SBJRestaurantReview@gmail.com.
