Each week, the Shreveport-Bossier Journal’s always-hungry reporter visits a different restaurant and tells you about the experience.
By ANON E. MUSS, Journal Services
Until not long ago, Monjunis Italian Café’ & Grocery in Bossier City (2151 Airline Drive, Suite 100), had the area’s most attention-getting billboard.
“We serve the BIGGEST meat BALLS in town. Perhaps it was that memorable message that caused me to think about Monjunis, when I had a taste for Italian food on a recent Tuesday evening.
Even though there are three locations in Shreveport-Bossier, one in Benton, and one in Baton Rouge, I don’t consider Monjunis a chain restaurant. It’s my understanding they are not all under the same ownership. I’ve been to each of the three Shreveport-Bossier locations. The restaurants have similarities and subtle differences. It had been at least two years since I dined at the Airline Drive location, so I was anxious to enjoy a taste of Italy in Bossier.
My friend and I arrived at 6pm and at the choice of sitting at a table or a booth (we chose a table). Monjunis is not a large place, which lends to its somewhat intimate atmosphere. It’s also not a fancy place. The dress is definitely casual, as is this case at most restaurants these days. But as I looked around, I got the feeling Monjunis doesn’t really know what it wants to be. Plastic grapes hung from the ceiling, which gave an Italian vibe. Yet, the walls were plastered with old signs, most of which had nothing to do with Italy or Italian food. And then there were the wacky-looking, yet colorful, globe lights above the seating areas.
And let’s talk about the music. First, it was way too loud. Someone must have said something because the volume was eventually turned down. Second, the music was everything but Italian. We heard Classic Rock to Motown. Regardless of the food, it’s hard to imagine yourself in Italy when listening to what accompanied our meal.
WARNING: It is very easy to fill up on the bread and sauce Monjunis serves soon after you take your seat. I should have asked, but I assume the bread – not too crunchy and not too soft – was delicious by itself. But once you dip in in that sweet sauce that you only find at Monjunis, it’s game over. If you don’t pace yourself, you will be too full to eat anything else.
My friend and I chose from 11 appetizers, all of which had an Italian theme. I love artichoke hearts, so we went with Marinated Artichoke Hearts ($9.50). The menu’s description promised they would be topped with creamy Italian dressing and grated Romano cheese. And they were. What the menu did not mention is that the plate would be half artichoke hearts and half black olives. Obviously, I would have preferred the plate full of artichoke hearts, but my friend and I both like olives. So, the appetizer wasn’t a complete disappointment. The artichoke hearts, and the olives, were good.
You would be hard-pressed to find an Italian dish Monjunis did not offer. The menu is divided into Italian Specialties, Italian Favorites, Salads, Muffalettas, Pizzas, and Po’Boys. Let me tell you something: I’m addicted to two kinds of food, and pizza is one of them. But it had been a while since I ate Asa pizza from any place other than the typical, national pizza places.
The decision of what kind of pizza to get was not easy. The Veggie Pizza, Italian Sausage, and Muffaletta Pizza all caught my eye. But it had been years since I had a muffaletta. So, I ended two droughts at once. I ordered the Muffaletta Pizza.
My friend loves Eggplant Parmesan, and what do you know? There was Eggplant Parmesan – the second item under Italian Specialties. As my friend read the menu’s description, I think I saw a touch of drool coming from her mouth. “Eggplant breaded in Italian breadcrumbs, and fried, then baked in our Original sauce with Provolone and Romano cheeses, served on a bed of angel hair pasta.”
Oh, my. I knew if the Eggplant Parmesan was half as good as it sounded, my friend would be happy.
It wasn’t 10 minutes after we ordered that Kenzye, a very nice young lady, brought us our entrees. Let’s start with my pizza. It wasn’t totally what I expected, but that turned out to be a good thing. There were four slices, which weren’t really slices. I would call them “squares”. They were well-topped with ham, salami, olive mix, (well-melted) mozzarella, and tomato. The crust did not taste like typical pizza crust. It tasted more like the pizza dough I use at home, which I hand-form and roll out.
The pizza tasted like a good muffaletta sandwich, without the “sandwich” part.
I could tell, after she took the first bite of her eggplant parmesan, that my friend was a happy camper. She loved it. She described her dish as “Piping hot and piled up high. The eggplant was a great combination of soft and crispy. The cheese was nice and melted.” She did say the eggplant and pasta could have used a little more sauce.
I don’t want to say the portions of veal and pasta were big, but my friend was only able to eat half. She took home the other half, which meant two meals for the price of one. That’s always a winner in my book!
For dessert, Monjunis offered five choices. However, we came to eat Italian food, so how could we pass up a slice of Italian Cream Cake ($5.95)? But we were in for a surprise. Just like my pizza, instead of a slice, the Italian Crème Cake was a big Italian Cream cupcake, with icing on top. Kenzye told us all of Monjunis desserts, except the cheesecake, are made in-house. The Italian Cream (cupcake) sure tasted like it.
The cost of our meal, before taxes and tip, was $45.90. Although I always pay attention to prices when ordering, I was very pleased with the cost, when you consider the quality of food.
I give Monjunis Italian Café & Grocery Three Forks. The atmosphere was relaxed, the food was very good, and the service was efficient. If the restaurant was a little more “Italian” with its music and wall décor, it would easily become a Four Forks place I would go out of my way to dine.
Is there a restaurant you would like the Journal to visit? Email SBJRestaurantReview@gmail.com.
1 Fork: Would rather eat a box of dirt
2 Forks: Will return, but only if someone else is buying
3 Forks: Will return and look forward to it
4 Forks: Will return and go out of my way to do so
