Each week, the Shreveport-Bossier Journal’s always hungry reporter visits a different restaurant and tells you about the experience.
By ANON E. MUSS, Journal Restaurant Reviewer
A good friend, who eats out often, expressed “shock” when learning I had never been to Fat Calf Brasserie (3030 Creswell Avenue, Shreveport).
Not wanting to feel inferior to someone I consider well-cultured and well-traveled, I decided the time had come to try what the restaurant’s website describes as “A French-Inspired Culinary Experience.”
That experience began the Tuesday before my dining companion and I went for a Friday dinner. I made a reservation, which I highly recommend, on the restaurant’s very user-friendly website. Not only was I given other time options close to the time I requested, but I had the choice of sitting in the dining room, at the bar, or on the patio.
With our 6:45 dining room reservation confirmed (I was emailed a request to confirm again Friday morning), I looked forward to trying something new (my friend who went with me had been there once.) Wanting to avoid I-20 construction, we took the long way to get to the corner of Creswell and Kings Highway. Once we arrived, it became apparent parking would be an issue. We turned into the lot beside the restaurant, and not only discovered all the spaces were full, but that there was only one way in and one way out.
We parked in a small lot behind the restaurant. But take note, that lot is dark. If that’s where you park, I suggest paying attention to your surroundings.
We entered the restaurant at 6:47 and we were greeted by a host who was talking on a cordless phone. He showed us to our table, while continuing his conversation. That rubbed me the wrong way, until he finished his call and came back to us to apologize.
Apology accepted.
It wasn’t long before our server was standing at our table, ready to take our drink order. Joanna could not have been more pleasant and helpful throughout the evening. She wore a smile on her face and was very knowledgeable about the menu items. She also had four – that’s right, four – blue ink pens on her apron. If you need to borrow a pen – or four – just ask Joanna.
Fat Calf Brasserie is not a big place. In fact, I’m pretty sure at one time it was someone’s house. We estimated the dining room and bar area had room for 50 people. The front patio could accommodate another 30 people. (By the way, the dining room seats were covered in very comfortable, stylish cushions.)
My friend ordered a glass of Parducci Pinot Noir ($11) which she enjoyed. I had water, which was served without ice. A google search indicated that French restaurants typically don’t serve ice. Who knew?
There were several appetizer choices. My friend asked Joanna about the Crispy Brussels Sprouts ($12). Joanna said they are a customer favorite, having remained on several versions of the menu. The Brussels Sprouts were described on the menu as being “flash-fried and tossed in house-made Korean vinaigrette, served with golden raisins, pumpkin seeds, and Maldon salt.”
That’s what we chose and we were not disappointed. The serving bowl was filled to the top. I didn’t think the Brussels Sprouts tasted like Brussels Sprouts, and that was just fine. All the other goodies provided the flavor. For $12, we thought we received our money’s worth.
For my meal, I was torn between the Crispy Stripped Bass and the Crispy Duck Breast. You can eat fish any time, but how often can you eat duck? After conferring with Joanna, I decided to give the duck ($32) a try.
It was served with orange gastrique, pine nut farro salad, and candied bacon collard greens. I didn’t know what those first two were, and I still don’t think I know. But all of it mixed together – under six slices of duck – was very good. I don’t know why the entrée is referred to as “Crispy” – I didn’t find anything crispy. What I did find was something I had not previously eaten but would certainly eat again.
My friend had trouble deciding between the Rack of Lamb, the Herb Roasted Chicken, and the Steak & Frites. Somone sitting behind her was eating the Lamb, so we asked how it was. Upon his recommendation, my friend chose the Lamb ($41), which was served with spring pea risotto, herb oil, pea tendril salad, and au jus.
She enjoyed Lamb once before – a couple of years ago in New York – so the bar was high. Unfortunately, my friend said Fat Calf’s Lamb did not meet that bar. While it wasn’t bad, she said it had a lot of fat, and was hard to get off the bone. After dismissing my suggestion to ‘just pick it up and pull off the meat with your teeth’, I attempted to cut meat that was close to the bone. I was successful, but in the process splattered juice on my white shirt. Next time, I will stay in my lane.
For dessert, we were presented with three choices: Vanilla Bean Panna Cotta, Nutella Pot de Crème, or Strawberry & Rhubarb “Pie”. None of those tempted my taste buds, so I insisted my friend make the call. She went with the Panna Cotta, and I could not have been happier with her choice.
It was one of the best desserts I can remember having. Meyer lemon curd, lavender blueberry compote, and a French macaron on top. It was outstanding – especially when we got down to the lemon curd. I’m guessing there were a few calories involved, but they were worth overlooking for the taste.
The cost for our meal, before tax and tip, was $94. Obviously, at least for me, a trip to Fat Calf Brasserie would not be an every week occurrence. But I can see myself going there every couple of months. The food (my friend said next time she will order something different), atmosphere – the place was packed when we arrived and when we left – and service were very good.
I give Fat Calf Brasserie Four Forks. I would return and go out of my way to do so. However, I may park at the nearby Brookshire’s and walk a little farther. I wonder if that would “shock” my friend?
Is there a restaurant you would like the Journal to review? Email: SBJRestaurantReview@gmail.com
1 Fork: Would rather eat a box of dirt
2 Forks: Will return, but only if someone else is buying
3 Forks: Will return and look forward to it
4 Forks: Will return and go out of my way to do so
