Frequently, the Shreveport-Bossier Journal’s always-hungry reporter has lunch at a local restaurant and tells you about the experience.
By ANON E. MUSS, Journal Services
Walking by Faith.
No, that’s not the name of my new book. However, if I write one, that would be an appropriate title.
Walking by Faith Kitchen & Catering (1210 Milam Street, Shreveport) is the name of a restaurant which I learned about from their social media posts. Walking by Faith billed itself as a soul food restaurant. I love me some good soul food, so on a recent Tuesday, I invited a friend to join me, and find out how much “soul” this place had.
Having been burned in the past, I called to make sure Walking by Faith was open, only to get a recording which said the phone number was out of service. Hmmm…I went to the restaurant’s Facebook page, and learned that Walking by Faith had just moved to its current location, and apparently didn’t keep their phone number. So, I alerted my friend, saving us both a trip to a closed restaurant.
We arrived just before noon, and I was confused. My GPS said I was at the right location. However, I didn’t see a sign reading “Walking by Faith Kitchen & Catering”. What I did see was a sign which read “Milam St. Kick – Kitchen Incubator Community Kitchen, Southern University at Shreveport.” Now, I’m not the brightest bulb on the tree, but if I was at the right address, and there was sign referencing a kitchen, I figured I was where I was supposed to be.
My friend and I walked in, and there was a line of people waiting to get their food. We asked, and sure enough, we were at Walking by Faith. A look around, and I noticed the dining room was spacious, clean, and bright, with sunlight pouring in from the windows facing Milam Street. The music was very appropriate, as my friend noticed it was coming from the Smooth Jazz & Soul YouTube Channel. I thought it interesting that during our time there, we were the only ones who sat down and ate. Everyone else – and there was a steady stream of people – took their food to-go.
Unlike me, my friend is an extrovert and very personable. When we got to the counter to order, he immediately struck up a lively conversation with the man behind the counter, Johnell, who we found out was the new owner. He told us that he recently took over the restaurant from his parents and moved it to a new location. He asked us how we heard about the place, and said, “I want you to like me when you leave.” Well, that would depend on the food.
Because of the recent move, we were told Walking by Faith did not have its full menu available. However, here were our choices:
- Beef Tips
- Pork Neck Bones
- Smothered Liver
- Fried or Smothered Pork Chop
Each entrée came with a choice of rice, or mashed potatoes, and two sides (Cabbage, corn, okra & tomatoes, yams, fried okra).
There was one dessert – Peach Cobbler.
I always let my guest choose first. Considering I had no desire to eat pork neck bones, smothered liver, or beef tips, I was relieved when he ordered beef tips ($16.50). That meant I was free to select something I did have a desire to eat – a pork chop. I try to stay from fried food as much as possible, so I went the smothered route. Johnell asked if I wanted one pork chop or two. I didn’t have time to go home afterwards and take a nap, so I chose one pork chop ($14).
Good conversation helps ease the pain of a long wait for just about anything. My friend and I waited awhile to be served, but then again, there were people ahead of us, and I got the feeling there weren’t a lot of folks cooking in the kitchen.
Eventually, Johnell – remember, he’s the owner – brought our food – two Styrofoam containers – and genuinely expressed his hope that we liked what we ordered. My friend was first to open his container, and for me, it was like watching a child opening a Christmas present. My friend’s eyes lit up, and his facial expression became one big smile.
“This looks fantastic!” he exclaimed. I agreed. My friend was staring at a huge serving of beef tips, cabbage, and corn.
Encouraged by his reaction, I opened my container. Wow! There was the biggest pork chop I had ever seen, along with healthy servings of cabbage and yams. And, what was this? There was something on top of our food, but it was too big to be a piece of hot water cornbread.
Or was it?
“Is this hot water cornbread?”, my friend asked Johnell. Sure enough, it was.
“That’s the biggest, fluffiest hot water cornbread I’ve ever seen!” my friend said. Afterwards, he remarked that unlike other hot water cornbread, this piece was not too salty. Despite its size, my cornbread was fully cooked, soft on the inside, and a little crunchy on the outside.
As for my friend’s beef tips, they were “Perfect. The meat was flavorful and tender, and the size of the beef tips were on point . . . . The rice was perfectly cooked – great separation with the grains, but not crunchy or mushy. Just the right amount of gravy, too. The dish was flavorful without being salty or greasy. It was terrific.”
Would I have the same satisfaction after eating?
Yes!
My food was outstanding! Not only was the pork chop huge, it was thick. There was a lot of meat on the bone. And, that meat was tender. I had no trouble cutting with the plastic knife which was provided. And, while smothered, the pork chop didn’t drown in gravy. There was just the right amount. I also chose rice, which was well-cooked and soft. My sides, cabbage and yams, were terrific as well. They didn’t taste like they came from a restaurant. Rather, they reminded me of the food my late aunt, who lived in the country, would cook for Sunday lunch.
As for the cobbler, Johnell said it was made by his mother-in-law. Even if we hadn’t known that, we would have realized the cobbler was homemade. My friend has a way with words, so I will share his thoughts. “The cobbler was outstanding. The crust enhanced the fruit and filling without overpowering it. The peaches seemed to rely on their natural sweetness, without a lot of added sugar.”
My comment? Ditto.
The cost of our meal before tax and a 3.5% card processing fee was $32.50. I don’t know if it was a mistake, or if Johnell was being kind, but we were not charged for our drinks (Coke, Diet Coke, and water, all served in bottles). Had I noticed this before we left, I would have called it to his attention.
I have spent a lot more money on lunch for two, and had worse food. My experience at Walking by Faith was excellent. The owner was super-friendly. The dining area gave off a relaxed feel. And the food was outstanding. While we were still eating (my food stayed hot the entire time), I told my friend that Walking by Faith Kitchen & Catering was definitely deserving of Four Forks. Not only will I return, but I will go out of my way to do so.
Faith brought me to this restaurant. Sight will bring me back. And yes, Johnell, my friend and I liked you when we left.
Is there a restaurant you would like the Journal to visit for lunch?
Email SBJRestaurantReview@gmail.com.
