Each week, the Shreveport-Bossier Journal’s always-hungry reporter visits a different restaurant and tells you about the experience.
By ANON E. MUSS, Journal Services
There is a bit of history between me and Orlandeaux’s Café (5301 South Lakeshore Drive, Shreveport).
About this time last year – it was either a Friday or Saturday night – I went to Orlandeaux’s with plans to write my first restaurant review for the Shreveport-Bossier Journal. I had heard nothing but good things about Orlandeaux’s. Apparently, so had a lot of other people. I was told the wait was three hours.
I like good food, but I don’t like it enough to wait three hours.
A few months later, I decided to try again. The wait time was better.
Two hours.
Two hours and still too long.
Throughout the months, two people suggested we have (an early) lunch at Orlandeaux’s. That was a suggestion I immediately embraced. The food was very good. In fact, one time I had a catfish po-boy which was the best catfish po-boy I have ever eaten.
Determined to review Orlandeaux’s for dinner, I recently planned to visit on a day and at a time when surely there would be little-to-no wait – a Tuesday at 5pm. A friend joined me, and sure enough, we were immediately seated.
However, the gravel driveway from South Lakeshore to Orlandeaux’s parking lot will shake your body like the chill of the flu. We’re not just talking regular-sized potholes. We’re talking extra-large potholes. I told my friend it’s interesting — the restaurant appears to be doing well (two and three hour wait times), so certainly they could afford to fill in those potholes. She is much smarter than me, as proven by her answer.
“Why would they spend the money, when people are coming here anyway?”
Good point.
We were fortunate to land a table next to the long window which overlooked part of Cross Lake. The beautiful scenery made up for the likelihood the restaurant itself won’t win any beauty awards. The sun reflecting off the water. The tree-lined bank. This is where my visit brought back childhood memories of going to dinner with my parents or grandparents at Smith’s Cross Lake Inn—which was where Orlandeaux’s now sits.
Our server, Sharonda, could not have been friendlier, funnier, and more helpful. She was eager to take our order, patient while we decided what to order, and answered all of our questions.
For an appetizer (Orlandeaux’s offers seven), my friend and I decided to share a bowl of Gumbeaux ($10). The menu said it was a “small” bowl. However, when the gumbeaux arrived, we were very pleased with the bowl’s size. There was plenty of gumbeaux to share.
What’s in the gumbeaux? What’s not? We found everything from rice, to sausage, to okra, to shrimp. And whatever else was in there made the gumbeaux some kind of spicy! Sharonda kept filling my water glass, which was much appreciated – and needed.
As mentioned, I had previously enjoyed a po-boy at Orlandeaux’s. Another visit, I enjoyed red beans & rice. So, this time, I wanted something different. There are Brother’s Specials, which include Momma’s Beef Tips, Smothered Pork Chops, and Chicken Fried Steak. And there are Scrap’s Specials, like Half Fried Chicken, and Fried Mixed Liver & Gizzards.
But on this night, I was all about seafood. So, I chose the Freeman’s Special ($22). It is named after Van Freeman from the iconic Freeman & Harris Café’ of days gone by. I was promised one piece of fish (I chose grilled), three shrimp (I chose fried), and one stuffed shrimp. The entrée’ came with my choice of a side – French Fries, Rice & Gravy, or Mashed Potatoes & Gravy. I went with fries.
On this night, I learned something about my friend. She likes stuffed shrimp. She was at the right place because at Orlandeaux’s, you can order one, three, four, six, or 12 of them. She chose to have three ($15). She substituted her side choices with an order of Eaux-Rings (onion rings), which unbeknownst to me was a $4 upcharge.
While waiting for our meal, we saw what was being served at nearby tables. This only increased my anticipation. Everything the other diners ordered looked fantastic. Surely ours would look the same, and taste as good as it looked.
In due time, Sharonda placed our plates in front of us. My first words were, “The presentation is beautiful!” Take a look at the pictures below and see if you agree. My fish was on a bed of fries, sprinkled with parsley, and had slices of red bell pepper on top. The shrimp took up the rest of the plate, along with three servings of remoulade sauce.
Each item was hot and wonderful. The fish was tender and tasty. The fried shrimp were nice in size, and their batter crunchy. The stuffed shrimp was stuffed with – a lot of stuffing. It tasted good, albeit a bit bland.
My friend’s plate looked like a heart attack waiting to happen. There were three stuffed shrimp, and several huge onion rings which looked like something you would eat at the fair. Were these onion rings, or a fried funnel cake? They looked more like donuts with sugar mixed into the batter.
And this is where my friend and I disagreed. She enjoyed the onion rings. I ate one and did not. Mine was cold and clumpy. If I had ordered onion rings, I would have been very disappointed. By the way, the stuffed shrimp were so big, my friend had to ask Sharonda for a to-go box.
The cost of our meal before taxes and tip was $52. I took note that Orlandeaux’s suggested a tip based on the after tax amount, not the subtotal.
Yes, the potholes made for a rough start to our experience. And for me, the Eaux-Rings were a diseauxppointment. But everything else we ate was so good, and the service and atmosphere so enjoyable, that I give Orlandeaux’s Café Four Forks. When you include my two previous visits, everything I have ordered has been outstanding.
Not outstanding enough to wait two or three hours, however. So, for my next visit, I will make plans for a Tuesday early dinner.
Is there a restaurant you would like the Journal to visit? Email SBJRestaurantReview@gmail.com.
1 Fork: Would rather eat a box of dirt
2 Forks: Will return, but only if someone else is buying
3 Forks: Will return and look forward to it
4 Forks: Will return and go out of my way to do so
