Each week, the Shreveport-Bossier Journal’s always-hungry reporter visits a different restaurant and tells you about the experience.
By ANON E. MUSS, Journal Services
When it comes to the Mount Rushmore of Shreveport-Bossier restaurants, Murrell’s, and George’s Grill, have to be included.
If you ate at either, you still remember their food and atmosphere. I’m not sure the phrase “Comfort Food” does each justice. I am not sure the word “Casual” is casual enough to describe each diner’s surroundings.
Both have been gone a long time. Murrell’s closed in 2009, and George’s closed in 2017 (the building caught fire years later.) But on a recent Tuesday, I found a place that sure seemed to be trying to duplicate Murrell’s and George’s food, while adding a little class to the dining experience.
The Glass Hat Cafe (423 Crockett St.) in downtown Shreveport has been open a year. The restaurant – which serves breakfast and lunch Tuesday through Saturday – originated as a cocktail lounge in 1937. While most downtown buildings look their age, The Glass Hat underwent almost a total remodel. There was a “Wow!” factor when my friend and I opened the door. We were greeted by a bright and airy look, including lots of tables, ceiling fans, and 30 (I counted) hanging lights. The floor was a pleasing white and grey. The only sign that this was an old building was one wall, which has the building’s original brick.
At 12:30, we grabbed the last available table. As you might expect, most of the diners looked as if they were working downtown, and probably walked to the restaurant. However, there’s good news if you drive to The Glass Hat. In the lot at the corner of Marshall and Crockett streets, spaces 40-52 are available for free parking.
If you’re looking for a place with big, fancy menus, keep looking. Our server brought each of us paper menus, which had more wrinkles than me – and that’s a lot of wrinkles. On one side were breakfast choices offered all day. While there is a Belgian Waffle, French Toast, and Biscuits and Gravy, everything else was egg heavy.
I was tempted to have breakfast as lunch, but didn’t want to throw my body clock out of whack. So, I turned the menu over to the lunch items. The Glass Hat offers daily specials, but just my luck, Tuesday’s specials (Liver & Onions, and Chicken & Dumplings) were not something I care for. I would have known that, if The Glass Hat had a website, or if it posted daily updates to its Facebook page. Looking at the restaurant’s other offerings, there were several entrees labeled as Southern Classics, a few sandwiches, and three salads.
I can’t tell you the last time I had a chicken fried steak, but there’s a good chance I had it at Murrell’s. Hoping to go back in time, I ordered The Glass Hat’s Chicken Fried Steak ($14.50), which, as all Southern Classics do, came with my choice of two sides, and cornbread, roll, or biscuit.
My friend used to love her mother’s chicken & dumplings. Now, we know that no one cooks like momma, but my friend decided to give The Glass Hat a shot. Likewise, the Chicken & Dumplings ($14.50) came with the same choices I had, as well as a side salad.
Frankly, when the salad arrived, it looked pitiful. The bowl had what resembled bagged lettuce, three pieces of sliced tomato, and a few croutons. I hoped, for my friend’s sake, the rest of her meal would at least look better.
And it did. Her Chicken & Dumplings, which we were told were homemade, filled a large, high bowl. I could see smoke coming from the top, so I knew they would be hot. While there was a lot of shredded chicken and a lot of dumplings, there was also a lot of salt. Well, let me take that back. As my friend pointed out, there was too much salt for our liking, but someone else may find the amount just right.
My friend’s other sides were turnip greens and friend okra, and she chose cornbread. All looked good, and she said they all tasted good.
When my chicken fried steak arrived, I was disappointed. I was expecting a huge piece of meat which hung over the plate’s edge, like I used to get at Murrell’s. However, this chicken friend steak was much, much smaller. I will let you look at the picture below and decide if you think the size was right for the price. My friend pointed out that it was a lunch portion, and she is usually right. At noon time, I should not have expected anything much larger.
The good news is that big things sometimes come in small packages. The chicken friend steak was delicious! It was warm, and the “fried” part wasn’t too thick and wasn’t too thin. Also, the steak was very tender, and had a really good taste.
For my sides, I chose black-eyed peas, and broccoli, to go along with a piece of cornbread. None of the three were noteworthy. They were what they were.
I did not see any desserts on The Glass Hat’s menu, so I was surprised when our server asked if we wanted a piece of Apple Pie ($4). I countered with a question: “Do you have vanilla ice cream?” I was told, “No.” How can you offer apple pie without vanilla ice cream? Still, my friend and I decided to try a piece. It was a nice-sized slice but was neither hot nor cold – it was somewhere in the middle. Boy, a scoop of vanilla ice cream would have made the pie so much better.
Now, let’s talk about The Glass Hat’s pricing. The amounts shown on our itemized receipt were different than the menu’s prices. It appears we were charged an additional 4% per item because we paid with a card instead of cash. I don’t have a problem with this practice, as it has now become common. However, a restaurant should make its diners aware, by putting a disclaimer on the menu. It looks like you’re trying to get one past the customer.
The cost of our meal, before taxes and tip, was $34.32. If you go to The Glass Hat, know that the suggested tipping amounts are based on the total cost, and not the subtotal. As we all know, you should never leave a tip based on the taxable amount of your meal.
I left feeling that The Glass Hat Cafe is really trying hard to duplicate the food of Murrell’s and George’s, while offering a more upscale environment in which to eat. So, I give the downtown restaurant Three Forks. I would return, but not go out of my way. But I would go out of my way to eat at Murrell’s or George’s – if only I could go back in time.
Is there a restaurant you would like the Journal to visit? Email SBJRestaurantReview@gmail.com.
1 Fork: Would rather eat a box of dirt
2 Forks: Will return, but only if someone else is buying
3 Forks: Will return and look forward to it
4 Forks: Will return and go out of my way to do so
