Each week, the Shreveport-Bossier Journal’s always-hungry reporter visits a different restaurant and tells you about the experience.
By ANON E. MUSS, Journal Services
Because of where I live, I drive by Cush’s Grocery & Market (9535 Ellerbe Road, Shreveport) once or twice a day. Yet, I had only stopped once, and that was probably four years ago. Maybe because Cush’s doesn’t have a big sign on the front of the building, it’s just not a place I think of when it comes to having lunch or dinner.
But on a recent Friday, a gave a friend a list of places from which to choose, where we could have lunch and I could write a review. He chose Cush’s, where he has been a frequent customer for most of Cush’s 28 years in business.
If you’re driving on Ellerbe Road and looking for Cush’s, you better look closely. Their only sign is one of those real estate agent-looking signs in the ground by the side of the street. However, if you’re approaching from Flournoy-Lucas Road, there is a large sign on the side of the building.
My friend and I arrived at 11:30, and his experience quickly came into play. He said it was a good thing we were there early, because the place would fill up quickly. There isn’t a lot of seating, but sure enough, by Noon, every table was full, including those on the patio.
As the name indicates, Cush’s is more than a restaurant. In fact, “restaurant” isn’t even in its name. You can buy everything from boxes of Wheat Thins to bottles of wine. Also, who knew there were so many varieties of jellies and jams? If you want to pick up something and take home to eat, Cush’s has glass cases with the likes of meat pies, chicken salad, twice-baked potatoes, chicken, and steak.
But we were there to eat in-house. My friend and I had two servers, both of whom were very pleasant and attentive. One of them told us the staff does whatever is needed. So, if one server is busy with a large party, another server will help at a table for two. Now that’s a great strategy – putting the customer first.
Cush’s offered seven appetizers. Some, you could get as either a small or large portion. We went with Egg Rolls ($10). They came six to an order, and while not particularly large, they were filled with vegetables and pork, fried just right, and came with a sweet and sour sauce which, to me, tasted more like BBQ sauce. The rolls and the sauce were very good.
My friend ordered a cup of Gumbo ($8) which, according to the menu, was soup and not an appetizer. He gets Cush’s gumbo often, and knew what to expect. He was not disappointed. The gumbo was filled with shrimp, oysters, and at least one crab claw. In fact, he said Cush’s gumbo consistently has more shrimp than any other restaurant’s gumbo.
Depending on what you want for your meal, you have plenty of options. Cush’s is a salad lover’s dream, with 21 varieties. Cush’s also has several burgers, po-boys, and sandwiches. If you’re in the mood for something heavier, you have choices, from pasta to steaks.
Probably 80% of my diet consists of salads (although I’m not sure you could tell by looking at me). However, since I was like a Cush’s newbie, my friend strongly suggested I try their pasta. He says Cush’s has some of the best Italian food in town (he loves their lasagna). Pasta isn’t normally something I have for lunch on a 90-degree day, but my friend seldom steers me in the wrong direction. So, I ordered the Vegetable Pasta ($16).
While one of our servers was walking from the kitchen with our food, I could see white smoke rising from my plate. It looked like the video you see when a Pope is elected. If you are a frequent reader of these reviews, you know I like it when food which is supposed to be hot, is hot. And the vegetable pasta was hot. The large plate was loaded with angel hair pasta, and covered with sauteed green and yellow zucchini, broccoli, and carrot strips. (I chose to leave off the Romano cheese).
The pasta was cooked appropriately, was not clumped together, and went down smooth and silky.
My friend ordered the Roast Beef and Cheese Po-boy ($13), but without the cheese. Again, he knew what to expect, and Cush’s delivered. “It’s a no-frills po-boy in the best way,” my friend said. “There’s no reason to overthink it. It’s dressed in the classic po-boy fashion (lettuce, tomato, mustard, and mayo), with the condiments and vegetables complementing the flavorful brisket without it being overwhelming. You can always count on Cush’s bread to be fresh.” He also had a glass of unsweetened iced tea.
By the time we finished, there really wasn’t a reason for our plates to be washed. We left nothing visible. So as much as I like to let you, the reader, know about a restaurant’s desserts, my stomach had no room for anything else. My friend felt the same. However, he wasn’t about to leave Cush’s without having one of his favorites, a slice of Italian Cream Cake ($7).
“The Italian Cream Cake is always a highlight,” he said. “It’s a delightful dessert, an outstanding exclamation point to a satisfying meal. Satisfying, without being overly sweet.”
My friend has a way with words. Also, he was so eager to eat his slice of cake, my friend forgot to take a picture.
The cost of our meal, before taxes and tip, was $77.80. Pretty pricy for lunch, but remember, we had basically two appetizers totaling $18. The only thing I didn’t care for during my visit was that instead of a printed and itemized receipt, I was given the ticket written by one of our servers, which didn’t include prices, to take to the cashier. When I asked for an itemized receipt, I was handed one which didn’t list the specific items ordered. That made it difficult to make sure I was charged appropriately. In fact, after returning home, I noticed that some of the prices on the receipt were different than those on the menu.
Cush’s atmosphere is very nice. You are surrounded by food, and when the dining areas are full, there’s a lively buzz. If you go, glance around at the walls. They have many of what I assumed were pictures drawn by children. My friend quickly corrected me, explaining that each picture was drawn on a tablecloth by Shreveport’s William Joyce, an Emmy and Academy award winner who has written and illustrated more than 50 children’s books.
Without hesitancy, I give Cush’s Grocery & Market Four Forks. Not only would I return, but I would go out of my way to do so. Thankfully, I don’t have to go out of my way. I just have to remember to stop in, on one of the many times a week I pass by.
Is there a restaurant you would like the Journal to visit? Email SBJRestaurantReview@gmail.com.
1 Fork: Would rather eat a box of dirt
2 Forks: Will return, but only if someone else is buying
3 Forks: Will return and look forward to it
4 Forks: Will return and go out of my way to do so
