SBJ’s Weekly Restaurant Review: Pepito XO Mexican Bistro

Pepito XO Mexican Bistro
Each week, the Shreveport-Bossier Journal’s always-hungry reporter visits a different restaurant, and tells you about the experience.
 
By ANON E. MUSS, Journal Services
 
Honesty is the best policy, and I believe in practicing best policy.
 
So, I must tell you that just a few days after a friend and I made our first visit to Pepito XO Mexican Bistro (5815 Youree Drive, Shreveport), word came that Pepito Munoz was leaving this, and another local restaurant bearing his name, for an opportunity in Lafayette. 
 
Now, back to our regularly-scheduled programming.
 
This is the 38th review I have written for the Shreveport-Bossier Journal, but only the third review of a Mexican food restaurant. Considering we seem to have one on every corner, that low number surprised me. So, on a recent Saturday night, I thought it was time to see what Pepito XO was all about.
 
The restaurant’s website doesn’t allow for reservations, but I called the day of, and secured a table for 6:30. We arrived 10-15 minutes late (don’t judge), were greeted by a young man and woman at the host stand, and immediately shown to our table, which in this case was a booth.
 
The first thing I noticed about Pepito XO is that it’s really big. There’s a nice-size dining room with a bar on the right, surrounded by glass, and a huge, open dining room and bar on the left. Both bars have plenty of bright mustard-color seats, and are flanked by televisions in each corner. 
 
The second thing I noticed is the restaurant’s “clean” look. I don’t mean clean as in there not being trash on the floor. I mean clean as in clean lines. The walls and columns are white, giving the place an airy feel. That’s not to say there isn’t color. Very impressive artwork hangs throughout. Several pieces feature Pepito’s name and image. I wonder if those will stay?
 
The third thing I noticed was that our booth — all the booths — have very high backs. That, plus their black leather (the chairs are black leather, also), gave the restaurant a touch of elegance.
 
While walking to our booth, I also observed there were very few parties of two or four people. Long tables were surrounded by groups of people. Clearly, Pepito XO is a place where large families and groups of friends come for dinner.
 
While Taylor, a pleasant young woman, was taking our drink order, a young man arrived with chips and sauce. Oftentimes, people chose their favorite Mexican restaurant based on the quality of those pre-meal staples. I liked the salsa. It was more thin than thick, and had a little spice. The chips, however, were nothing special. In fact, they were a bit bland, and looked like they had been sitting out a while.
 
Pepito XO offers eight appetizers, including some you wouldn’t expect to find at a Mexican restaurant (i.e. Seared Tuna, Egg Rolls). My friend always likes to ask our server what she/he recommends. On this night,Taylor suggested XO Street Corn ($10). She cautioned it was messy, but that the messiness was worth it.
 
We took Taylor’s suggestion, and could not have been more pleased. She brought us eight skinny strips of grilled corn (think really miniature corn on the cob). They had been tossed in what the menu described as a “savory butter mix”, and “topped with blue corn ashes, queso fresco, and shaved scallions.”
 
Taylor was right. The XO Street Corn was messy. Each time my friend and I took a bite, the “savory butter mix” ran down our chins. It wasn’t long before we asked for extra napkins. But, as Taylor promised, the mess was worth it. This was one of the best appetizers I’ve ever had. The taste was outstanding, and I could have turned up the bowl and gulped down the “savory butter mix”.  If I return, I will definitely order the XO Street Corn again.
 
On one side, Pepito XO’s menu describes the restaurant’s burgers & sandwiches, salads & bowls, and nachos & quesadillas. Flip it over, and you will see 17 entrees, including six under the heading “Around the World.” Overall, you have your choice of everything from Flat Enchiladas, to Bacon-Wrapped Shrimp, to Korean BBQ.
 
Pepito’s is definitely not a traditional Mexican restaurant.
 
Being the perfect gentleman, I allowed my friend to order first. She went with the Chicken with Sour Cream Sauce Enchiladas ($16). 
 
As I said last week, I’ve really been focused on losing a few pounds. So, though I was tempted to order something extravagant, I chose the Burrito Bowl with Chicken ($17).
 
As promised, my friend was served three hand-rolled corn tortillas, filled with chicken. The tortillas were covered –and I mean covered — in a sour cream sauce. They were topped with red onions, parsley, and one green pepper.
 
Seeing the reaction on my friend’s face after she took her first bite, I knew something was wrong. She did not care for her food. My friend thought the enchiladas would be filled with chicken pieces. Instead, they were full of shredded chicken. My friend also said the sour cream sauce tasted more like Cream of Mushroom soup.
 
The enchiladas came with her choice of rice, charro beans, or tortilla soup. At my insistence, my friend ordered rice and beans. After reviewing our ticket, there was apparently a $1 charge for getting both. I took a few bites, and enjoyed the beans’ flavor. The rice was a bit clumpy and, like the chips, nothing special.
 
To her credit, my friend said it wasn’t the restaurant’s fault she didn’t care for her meal. She was tired, and not particularly hungry, which probably had something to do with her reaction. She said she would return, but order something different.
 
I enjoyed my meal. The Burrito Bowl, not particularly large, was divided into groups. There were black beans, avocado slices, chopped tomatoes, shredded lettuce, roasted corn, a few chips, and pickled jalapeno peppers. In the middle was Mexican rice, mixed with my choice of protein, chicken. (I declined the cheddar cheese which the bowl includes.) The Bowl came with a side of house dressing. (If you’re a fan of El Chico’s dressing, you will be pleased.)
 
All the ingredients tasted fresh. I didn’t have any complaints.
 
Pepito XO offers two desserts, Churros, and Lemon Carlota. I strive to include dessert in my review, but my friend and I were both stuffed. There was no way we could have eaten anything else. (Plus, I saved the boss a few bucks.)
 
The total of our meal before tax and tip was $44. (Just between us, I would have paid that for only the street corn!) While we were not charged extra for paying with a credit card, I noticed the restaurant’s tip suggestions are based on the after-tax total, and not the subtotal.
 
I give Pepito XO’s Mexican Bistro Three Forks. We have so many Mexican restaurants, one would have to be really special for me to go out of my way, which is the criteria for a Four Forks review. I enjoyed our visit, and would definitely return. I’m just not sure how many other Mexican restaurants I would be willing to pass.
 
Is there a restaurant you would like the Journal to review? Email SBJRestaurantReview@gmail.com
 
forks Three
 
1 Fork: Would rather eat a box of dirt
2 Forks: Will return, but only if someone else is buying
3 Forks: Will return and look forward to it
4 Forks: Will return and go out of my way to do so