Each week, the Shreveport-Bossier Journal’s always hungry reporter visits a different restaurant and tells you about the experience.
By ANON E. MUSS, Journal Services
The northwest corner of Kings Highway and 70th Street in Shreveport has been home to several restaurants.
Long (sounds better than “Old”) timers will remember that location as the home to a Western Sizzlin steakhouse. In more recent times, the building has housed Chef Lee’s Chinese buffet, and Larry’s Pizza.
The newest restaurant to give this busy intersection a go is Hunter Crab Seafood Restaurant & Bar (1758 E. 70th Street). Technically, it’s the in the Eastgate Shopping Center, but the restaurant is far away from the stores. A friend visiting from out of town had been wanting to try Hunter Crab, so we made plans to meet up for a recent Thursday dinner.
First of all, the place is HUGE. There is a dining room on each side, as well as rooms in the back for parties, private events, etc. But before you take a seat, you will notice the long, impressive-looking bar which features two big screen televisions.
My friend arrived first, and was taken to a booth in the one dining room which was open. I joined a few minutes later. Since Hunter Crab isn’t two years old, everything looked new. As expected, the restaurant has a marine atmosphere, with fish nets and life preserver rings on the walls. Looking around, we both noticed how clean the restaurant appeared. That’s not something which should be taken for granted. Nothing will bring down a restaurant’s atmosphere more than seeing food crumbs and paper napkins on the floor.
Before I left home, I looked at Hunter Crab’s on-line menu. Frankly, I found it confusing. But when opening the menu at the restaurant, I found it much easier to navigate and understand. I also quickly noticed some items priced in the hundreds of dollars. Yikes! (Don’t worry, boss. I went easy on you.) The highest-priced entree’ was the Mardi Gras, for $289.99. For that price, it better be served on a float with Harry Connick, Jr., singing, and John Goodman throwing beads.
Thankfully, there are many items much less expensive, starting with an appetizer. Hunter Crab offers 14, so there were plenty from which to choose. My friend suggested a half-dozen chicken wings ($7.99). I’m not sure how chicken wings relate to seafood, but I consider my friend a wing connoisseur. For as long as I have known him — a really long time — he has loved him some chicken wings. So, I went with it, and insisted he choose the flavor. He picked Sweet Chili Sauce.
Not long after we placed our order, Gisselle brought us six wings in a basket, which were placed over a couple of celery and carrot sticks. There were also two plastic containers of ranch dressing. For the record, Gisselle was very pleasant and hard-working. At one point, we thought she was the restaurant’s only server. It seemed like she was at every table!
For whatever reason, I’ve never been a big “wing” guy. But these chicken wings have me hooked. They were delicious. They were also big, soaked in the Sweet Chili Sauce, and with lots of chicken on the bone. My wing expert said they were as good as he’s had around these parts. That’s quite the compliment coming from him.
I interrupt the rundown of our food to bring you an important announcement. For me, the recorded music playing inside Hunter Crab ruined the experience. It wasn’t just loud. It was LOUD. So loud, that my friend and I could not carry on a conversation using our normal voice level. When I asked our server if she could turn down the volume, she said she could not.’ Basically, restaurant management requires the music be played that loud.
In addition, the music was one genre — no variety. This is just me, but I prefer to dine without listening to “Shake your booty, shake it all around . . . . ” And that was one of the tamest lyrics we heard regarding body movements.
We also found it interesting that Hunter Crab has a large screen, which we were told is used to display lyrics on karaoke nights . The restaurant wasn’t hosting karaoke on this particular night. But instead of showing a sporting event, there were random videos and commercials being played.
Now back to our regular programming.
For our meal, we wanted to give you the best sample possible of Hunter Crab’s food. So, I went with one of their 13 Get Your Catch options , while my friend chose one of the restaurant’s eight Fried Baskets.
With the Get Your Catch, you basically make your own seafood boil. You can choose from things like a Snow Crab Cluster, Shrimp, Scallops, and Blue Crabs. Most everything comes in quantities of either 1/2 pound and one pound. If you get one-pound, you also receive two potatoes and a small ear of corn.
I love boiled shrimp. Back when the casinos offered those all-you-can-eat seafood buffets, I did some damage. So, I decided on a pound of headless boiled shrimp ($23.99). You also get to pick your seasoning (five choices), and your spice level (Mild to Extra Hot). Gisselle recommended the House Special mix, which is a combination of seasonings. I chose the Medium spice level.
When Gisselle brought my order, I wasn’t sure if she was serving food, or something in quarantine from a medical lab. All of Hunter Crabs boils are covered and surrounded with a huge piece of plastic. In fact, you can barely see through the plastic, and have to bust it open to get to your food. I asked Gisselle about the plastic’s purpose. Does it seal in flavor? Does it keep from making a mess?
Apparently, neither, as Gisselle said she thought it was strictly for appearance.
Once I poked holes in and tore away the plastic, I laid eyes on a pound of large shrimp lathered in mix and soaked in juice, along with the promised potatoes and corn. To my delight, there was steam rising from it all, so I knew the food would be hot.
My meal was delicious. Everything had a terrific, spicy taste — including the potatoes and corn. I wasn’t sure if a pound of shrimp would be enough to fill me up, but by the time I ate the last shrimp, I was stuffed. And that juice — I could have turned up the tray and drank all of it.
As for my friend, he went with a Flounder Basket ($13.50). As promised, he was served four fried pieces of flounder. All baskets comes with shoestring french fries and two hush puppies (you can substitute onion rings for $1 more.) My friend’s food looked good, and he said it was good, but “nothing special”. My friend likened it to a Dairy Queen basket. He said his fish was hot, nicely battered, and tasted fresh.
Hunter Crab only offers one dessert — Cheesecake. After all that seafood, cheesecake didn’t sound too appealing, so we passed.
The cost of our meal (my friend had sweet tea ($2.75) and I had water) before taxes and tip was $48.23. (Caution: Hunter Crab’s tip suggestions are based on the total, and not the subtotal.) I thought that was a fair price for what we ate, and was certainly less than what it will cost if you go there really hungry, or if you’re feeding a family.
I give Hunter Crab Seafood Restaurant & Bar Three Forks. If the music wasn’t so loud, and if the music had more variety, I might go out of my way to return. But having to raise my voice to be heard, and having to listen to suggestions on what to do with my booty, overshadowed the really good food.
Is there a restaurant you would like the Journal to visit? Email SBJRestaurantReview@gmail.com
1 Fork: Would rather eat a box of dirt
2 Forks: Will return, but only if someone else is buying
3 Forks: Will return and look forward to it
4 Forks: Will return and go out of my way to do so
