Each week, the Shreveport-Bossier Journal’s always hungry reporter visits a different restaurant and tells you about the experience.
By ANON E. MUSS, Journal Services
This was a tough one to write.
I received an email from the owner of Niema’s Cookery Corner (5751 Youree Drive, inside Sunshine Health Market), inviting me to visit her restaurant. She wrote: “Your honest review of our cuisine would be greatly appreciated.”
But here’s the thing: these reviews aren’t just about food. They are about the experience, as noted in the disclaimer at the top of this page. So, here goes . . . .
I invited a friend to join me for what Chef Niema promised would be “delectable West African and Caribbean dishes”. So, at 12:30 on a recent Friday, we walked into Sunshine Health Market and headed to the back, where Niema’s Cookery Corner has several tables, surrounded by African/Caribbean colors and decor.
My friend and I didn’t see any signs indicating if we should seat ourselves, wait to be seated, or approach the counter to order. We did see a gentleman behind the counter, but he didn’t see us. He was looking at his phone. So, we walked up to the counter and waited. Again, the gentleman didn’t see us — he was looking at his phone.
Finally, I asked, “How does this work?” The gentleman, who was very nice, pointed out the “new” menu. If I’m a first-timer, I like to look at a restaurant’s menu before going, to get an idea of what I might want. I had done this, and had my taste buds set on the Lumley Shrimp. Unfortunately, I was told that wasn’t available. In fact, we were told several things on the seven-item menu were not available.
(Memo to restaurant owners: Do not make a menu public, if you are not ready to serve what is on it.)
We considered leaving, but asked for more details on what was available. The gentleman was very kind to bring us two samples, which sold us on staying. I ordered what the gentleman described as Brown Chicken ($24), which was not on the menu. Maybe it was the same as Curry Chicken, which was listed. My friend ordered Brown Stew Short Ribs ($25).
We also selected one of five appetizers (at least one of them wasn’t available), Caribbean Chicken Egg Rolls served with fries and Nimzomatic dipping sauce ($16).
It wasn’t too long before a very nice lady brought us silverware, plates, and soon after, our appetizer. The presentation was impressive. Half the tray was four egg rolls diagonally on top of each other. The other half was thick, crisp fries. Slices of green and white onion decorated both. We also received two containers of sauce.
The egg rolls (as well as the fries) were delicious, filled with corn, black beans, and chicken. My friend is more observant than me, and said they reminded her of the egg rolls at Applebee’s (when we used to have an Applebee’s). The egg rolls were “open”, so you saw the ingredients.
She also said they tasted like Applebee’s egg rolls. Hmmm…Surely, for $16, Niema’s egg rolls are made in-house. I asked. They are not. Yes, they were good, but to me, $16 is a big ask for something which isn’t made at the restaurant.
The dipping sauce is made in-house, and I would have paid $16 just for it (not really). It was thick, spicy, and made the egg rolls taste even better.
When the nice lady brought our meals, we stared in amazement. Both plates were full and practically overflowing. Mine had large servings of brown chicken (think sliced chicken soaked in sauce) topped with onions and bell peppers, rice, cabbage, and Plantains.
My friend’s servings were just as hearty, featuring slow braised caribbean short ribs in a brown gravy with potatoes and carrots, and the same sides which came with my order.
The rice had a nice, distinctive flavor. After a little digging, I learned Niema’s rice is made with coconut milk, habanero, and green onions. The cabbage was thin and tender. The plantains had a sweet, pineapple taste.
Beware, Niema’s food isn’t for the faint of heart. Everything we ate was spicy, which was fine with me. But by the time I was finished, my bottled water ($2.50) was long since empty.
Both my friend and I thoroughly enjoyed what we ordered. However, our server was concerned that as we were about to leave, there was still food on my friend’s plate. My friend assured our server that the food was excellent, but it was too much for her to eat in one sitting. We asked for a to-go box, and what my friend didn’t eat at the restaurant made for a second meal at home.
It wasn’t until halfway during our visit that recorded Caribbean music began playing. That was a nice touch, but we wish it would have been playing the entire time.
The cost of our meal (my friend had a Diet Coke ($2.50) before taxes and tip was $72. That included a $2 “Custom Amount”, which I was told was for paying with a card instead of cash. By the way, my tip amount was added to the total, and not the subtotal. I brought this up to the gentleman who took my payment (You pay when you order). He said that was the way the machine was set up, and Niema, who was not there, would be the one to provide an explanation.
To me, $72 for lunch for two is really expensive (Thank goodness dessert wasn’t offered). Minus the appetizer, lunch would have cost $56. It’s not that the food wasn’t good, but the prices certainly limit how often I eat at Niema’s.
So, here’s why this review was hard to write. The food was absolutely fantastic. It was different, and there was a lot of it. However, as I wrote earlier, to me, dining out is about more than the food. It’s the experience. We weren’t noticed upon arrival, saw nothing which directed us what to do, and — most bothersome of all — a lot of what was on the menu wasn’t available.
All this leads me to giving Niema’s Cookery Corner Three Forks. If my review was based on food alone, I would have given the restaurant Four Forks. Go and enjoy the tastes of West Africa and the Caribbean. Now that you know “how it works”,
I am sure your experience will be smoother than mine.
Chef Niema, you asked for my “honest review”. Tighten things up just a bit, and you will have a restaurant to which I would go out of my way to enjoy.
Is there a restaurant you would like the Journal to visit? Email SBJRestaurantReview@gmail.com
1 Fork: Would rather eat a box of dirt
2 Forks: Will return, but only if someone else is buying
3 Forks: Will return and look forward to it
4 Forks: Will return and go out of my way to do so
