Frequently, the Shreveport-Bossier Journal’s always-hungry reporter has lunch at a local restaurant and tells you about the experience.
(Editor’s Note: Anon E. Muss is off this week, so he asked his friend, Chuck Wagon, to write this week’s review.)
By CHUCK WAGON, Special to the Journal
People across the state ask the rhetorical question, “What do you consider to be gumbo weather?”
My answer is dependent upon a different kind of “whether:” whether gumbo is available. If it is, then I’m all in! I was strolling down Texas Street on a recent Monday midday and saw a window with decals that
said “Gumbo” and “Boudin.” I immediately reconfigured my lunch plan and strolled through the door of
Papion’s Creole Bistro (500 Texas Street) with an enthusiastic friend hot on my heels.
We entered a clean, bright space with subtle sounds of zydeco filling the air, and were greeted by a
friendly server who offered us a table. She promptly took our drink order and we both asked for ice
tea. It was delivered promptly, and we could tell the tea was freshly brewed. The menu offers almost
everything you would expect from a Creole Bistreaux, from jambalaya through etouffee, red beans and rice, and all the way to beignets and bread pudding. But the gumbo got my attention.
There was one gumbo on the menu ($14), “Shrimp and crab claws seasoned with the Cajun trinity in a delicious dark roux.” Sounds about right. Papion’s also offers daily specials. Monday’s special was Atchafalaya Burger and Fries ($12.99), described as an “Andouille infused burger on a butter toasted brioche bun with fried green tomatoes, bacon, cheese, lettuce and onion, served with seasoned French fries.” This caused my friend’s eyes to widen, and he asked, “When is the last time you actually had a meal that was completely original to you?” He got the special and we decided to split a side of jambalaya ($5.99) because we had to try it.
His Atchafalaya burger arrived ahead of my gumbo, and that was okay because it would take
him a while to tackle it. By that, I mean it was really generous. The menu says the patty is “infused”
with Andouille, but that’s a little misleading. The beef and the sausage are ground together. We were
told they had been tinkering with the balance since the restaurant opened in March, and this is the
combination they decided is best. There was no argument from us. My friend said, “This is a great combination which really gives the burger a unique creole twist. The fried green tomato adds to the flavor and provides a little crunch to the bite, which is excellent.” He said he “highly recommends it.” Now, this is a guy who eats out a lot, so consider this high praise. He said the fries were good, too; crisp and warm.
The gumbo was not quite what I expected, but it was good. They probably shouldn’t tout is as made
with “dark roux,” because this wasn’t even copper-penny roux, but it was good. It did its job as a gumbo
base without being a distraction. Otherwise, the gumbo was exactly as advertised. The shrimp and
crab claws were a little on the small side, but there were plenty of them, so I have no complaints. Well, I do have one complaint. If you’re in Louisiana and you’re using imported seafood, that’s like a gymnast falling off the balance beam. It’s an automatic deduction. I’m sure there are legitimate business reasons to make this choice, and I also hope Papion’s is quickly successful enough for them to make the transition to Louisiana shrimp and crawfish.
A slice of buttery garlic French bread accompanied the gumbo, and it was perfect. Now, on to the
jambalaya. “It was a little dry and spicy for my taste,” my friend said. “I’m glad I just got the side,
because a full serving would have had my eyes watering for sure.” Keep in mind we shared this side
item. I added hot sauce to my half. So, while I agree it was a tad dry, my eyes weren’t watering. The
jambalaya was presented in a nice way, artfully plated with green onion slices on top. It’s good enough
to be a side dish, but for different reasons, I also wouldn’t order it as a main course.
This eye watering issue brings up one frustration we had. There was only one server on duty and she
appeared to be overwhelmed. The restaurant was encouragingly busy, and she couldn’t keep up with
requests for drink refills, extra condiments, etc. Our tea glasses were empty for too long and we had to
wave her down to get more. It should be said that when she came around, she was exceedingly pleasant
(I even want to say “lovely,” but that might not be politically correct these days). But she was also tasked
with wiping down tables to turn them over for the next guests. It was simply too much on her.
We finished with a bang, though. Those Beignets, y’all; yes, they do them right. They come three to an
order and they were perfect. Hot, fresh, delicious. Not doughy, not burned at all, exactly the right
amount of powdered sugar. That’s the best $4.95 you’ll spend any day. I can only imagine the bread
pudding is pretty good, too; and you can rest assured will one day make it my business to find out.
We were in the restaurant for more than an hour, which is a little challenging for the working person,
but we have confidence the folks running the show will get the important operational details worked out over time.
Our bill before taxes and tip was $48.89. Once we paid the state and rewarded the waitress for her
efforts, the tally topped out at $61.87. That total is a little uncomfortable for lunch, but overall, we had a
positive first impression of Papion’s. We’re giving them grace for being new. Downtown needs this
restaurant to be successful, so we wish them well. I will be back for sure. I need to try some of the
other daily specials, like fried chicken with red beans & rice on Tuesday’s, or the fried pork chop sandwich on Thursday’s.
I give Papion’s Creole Bistro Three forks. If I’m downtown, I will go back without hesitation.
1 Fork: Would rather eat a box of dirt
2 Forks: Will return, but only if someone else is buying
3 Forks: Will return and look forward to it
4 Forks: Will return and go out of my way to do so
Is there a restaurant you would like the Journal to visit for lunch?
Email SBJRestaurantReview@gmail.com.
