By ANON E. MUSS, Journal Services

 

Back in the day — I’m talking the 1970’s, 80’s and 90’s — Ralph & Kacoo’s in Bossier City (1700 Old Minden Road) was a very nice, (some would say “upscale”), very popular restaurant.

 

However, somewhere along the way, Ralph & Kacoo’s became out of sight, out of mind. They didn’t do much advertising, and became something an afterthought, at least to me. But, in recent months, Ralph & Kacoo’s has been using a tag line with their social media posts, asking people to “Rediscover Ralph & Kacoo’s.”

 

So, on a recent Wednesday night, a friend and I set out to do just that.

 

It had been years since I visited. Walking in, the restaurant, which opened in 1969, looked just as I remembered. Swamp memorabilia hung on the walls, along with pictures and paintings which may have been there since 1969. Cajun music played throughout the lobby and dining room.

 

In addition to the main seating area, which has a mix of tables and booths, there’s a nice-looking bar with a few big screen televisions, and several “private” rooms for group dinners, etc. I think Ralph & Kacoo’s is where my parents hosted my high school graduation dinner. 

 

I’ve always thought of Ralph & Kacoo’s as a seafood restaurant (that’s how the front neon sign reads), and you probably have, also. But that’s no longer the case. Oh, sure, there are plenty of fish, shrimp, and crabmeat dishes. But Ralph & Kacoo’s also serves Mexican, pasta, beef and pork entrees, along with sandwiches and burgers.

 

Shortly after we were seated at 6:30, our server, Kayli, arrived. She was very pleasant and attentive throughout the evening. One thing she didn’t do, however, is bring us those complimentary big, round, fried hush puppies for which Ralph & Kacoo’s has been known. That’s not her fault. The puppies are no longer free. If you want them, you can pay $1.99 for a bowl of six.

 

That’s not to say nothing is free. Kayli did bring a basket of big, warm, soft rolls, dripping in melted butter. They were good. Too good. Be careful, or you will fill up before dinner.

 

There were 13 total starters from which to choose. My friend loves crab cakes, so we decided to share the New Orleans Crab Cake ($19.99). Despite on the menu “Cake” not having an “s”, we were served two “lump” crab cakes, made with “the same great recipe we have used for many years.” The cakes were drizzled in remoulade sauce.

 

Right at $20 is a little pricey for a starter, but this starter was well worth the cost. The cakes were huge, hot, and, as promised, lumpy. They sat on a bed of corn and green onion relish, which made for a nice surprise when we finished the cakes.

 

My friend and I usually order our entrees after we finish our starter. But, for some reason, we decided to order when our starter was served. That meant it was only a couple of minutes after we ate our last bite of crab cakes, before Kayli brought our main courses.

 

I went with the Pontchartrain ($22.99). It was described as “Grilled catch of the day fillet topped with gulf shrimp, tomatoes, jumbo lump crabmeat and our authentic Pontchartrain sauce.” Before ordering, I asked Kayli about the sauce, as I didn’t want anything creamy. She said the Pontchartrain sauce was, basically, lemon butter. Kayli also told me the “Grilled catch of the day” was Tilapia, but for a small upcharge (I think $5), I could have redfish. Knowing I would have to answer to the boss when turning in my expense report, I stayed with the tilapia.

 

Unfortunately, my meal, which came with a choice of one side (I chose mixed vegetables), wasn’t as warm as the crab cakes. It was good, but would have been better served hot instead of lukewarm. The fish was rather large, and covered with shrimp and crabmeat. The Pontchartrain sauce was plentiful. The vegetables weren’t anything special.

 

My friend loves salmon, so she ordered the Cedar Plank Salmon ($24.99). It was described as “Fresh filet of salmon smoked on a cedar plank to a perfect medium and topped with our lemon butter sauce.” It, too, came with a choice of side. She went with Crispy Brussel Sprouts.

 

My friend said, overall, her meal was good. Her fish was warm, but “a little dry.” She also thought the portion of fish was small. My friend really enjoyed the sprouts. She said they were juicy, had good flavor, and tasted as though they were pan-fried.”

 

Now, here’s something funny. Ralph & Kacoo’s offers six desserts. We kept Kayli waiting, as we couldn’t make a decision between Bread Pudding and Key Lime Pie. Thinking my friend loves bread pudding, and was being nice by suggesting we order the pie, I asked Kayli to bring us a bread pudding. As she was walking away, my friend told me she doesn’t like bread pudding. 

 

Oops!

 

So, I called Kayli back, and asked her to, instead, bring us a slice of Key Lime Pie. (All desserts are $6.99).

 

When Kayli returned, she placed servings of bread pudding and Key Lime Pie in front of us. She said she was sure it was one of our birthdays, and I’m pretty sure she gave us a wink. I sure hope Kayli doesn’t get in trouble for giving us two desserts for the price of one. She was being kind, noticing that we had trouble making a choice. That may have cost the restaurant $6.99, but it left a good, lasting impression on two paying customers.

 

So did the desserts. The bread pudding was warm, thick, and had just the right taste of rum. The pie had enough key lime taste, but not too much. The crust was thick and crunchy.

 

The cost of our meal, before tax and tip, was $74.96. Ralph & Kacoo’s is not inexpensive (remember, our starter was almost $20). But, we were pleased with the food (for the most part) and service. The dining room needs updating (new paintings and pictures), and management needs to find a way to keep the water in the big aquarium from looking so cloudy.

 

I give Ralph & Kacoo’s Three Forks. I would return, but I’m not sure I would go out of my way. However, if they make just a couple of changes, that could easily change. But if Kayli gets in trouble, I’m never going back.

 

Email: SBJRestaurantReview@gmail.com.